Most homes have foundation walls with cracks that are visible to the homeowner, while being typical it is not recommended that the cracks be ignored. Cracks can also be found on garage floors and on patios.
That small crack in your basement wall could be the first sign of a serious foundation problem. Left untreated, not only will the crack probably get larger, it could lead to the collapse of your foundation wall. Uneven settlement means one part of your home might end up higher or lower than another part and it too will cause cracks in your basement floor, foundation wall or in the structure of your home.
Cracks can be signs of an overload or excessive stress on a wall. As homes get older, cracks have a better chance of appearing. Excessive displacement, continuing movement, differential settlement and certain combinations of cracks are real problems we will discuss. The exception – those little hairline cracks that appear in floors and walls – often are caused by shrinkage and are not a concern since they are just cosmetic in nature.
Cracks are almost always visible “fractures” that tend to go from floor to ceiling and from the inside, right through to the outside. Cracks often originate from a point of weakness such as the corner of a window, a beam pocket, a utility penetration, or from the cut-out of a door sill. Occasionally cracks will form horizontally…this is more serious and indicates a structural failure.
Seepage, another common problem, may occur in combination with cracks. However, seepage problems are not always directly related to cracks. Seepage often is caused by surface water reaching the exterior of basement walls. Ineffective or poorly maintained drainage systems also can allow seepage. If seepage and leaks continue after correcting drainage and water removal systems, they need further investigation.
Another area where water problems are commonly found is at the point where pipes penetrate the wall. To do this, a hole is left in the foundation so that the pipe can be placed through the wall. After the pipe has been fed through the wall, the contractor will often use a brittle and rigid hydraulic cement to close the opening from inside the basement. Hydraulic cement begins to cure in minutes so it is usually only pushed two to three inches into the wall. Vibration in the pipe, among other factors, will often compromise the seal of the cement and cracking it (resulting in the area to leak again).
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